REE SEWN: The Nora Dress

McCalls 6891 shirt dress in navy polka dots

The Nora Dress: McCalls 6891 in navy polka dots. I'm sure I didn't mean to look quite so smug!

Recognise this pattern? It's the McCalls 6891 which came free with Love Sewing magazine in February. I loved the yellow version on the pattern envelope, and then when I saw Rebecca’s beautiful double gauze creation I was sold and hunted high and low for a copy of the magazine. It was a real treat to sit and read a sewing magazine too. I really enjoyed it!

I’ve had this fabric ear marked for a shirt dress since I bought it in the John Lewis sale, oh, four years ago??! I bought the buttons then too, they are little silver metal ones and are just a tiny bit special and make me happy. Funny how buttons bring a little bit of joy isn’t it. Quite ridiculous it has taken me so long to make this fabric into a dress, but this was one of those occasions where I was grateful to have some suitable stash fabric to use, as I would have struggled to justify spending on new fabric. Spending money is tight these days! I’m trying to use up my stashed fabrics and patterns where I can, as well as refashion things I’ve had in the sewing pile for ages, so I can get my sewing fix without breaking the bank. It’s also satisfying to see the stash going down instead of up!

Originally I was going to make a McCall’s 6696 from this fabric but I was a bit reserved about the blouson back, and knew I’d want to adapt that, plus I didn’t have enough of this fabric for the pleated skirt. I will sew a 6696 one day though, to try out the different collar type and skirt.

This is one of those “perfect fit” patterns, which gives extensive fitting instructions to tissue fit first. I legitimately couldn’t be bothered with this. I HATE tissue fitting with a passion. It’s fiddly, I always end up ripping the pattern and just getting annoyed. Much prefer an actual toile. That said, I did look at the finished measurements first and grade between sizes at the waist.

I did my toile and didn’t change much else as it seemed a good fit. I should’ve done a full toile with the skirt on and buttons etc, as it’s actually not a great fit in this version, so I’ll count it as a very wearable toile, and make some alterations next time. I am glad I did a bodice toile though if only for the collar construction. It wasn’t too tricky once I got my head around it but my word the instructions are as clear as mud!

Caveat: I’ve worn the dress all day in these pictures so it’s mega creased and the collar needs a good press into submission. This fabric seems to attract fluff and cat hair, so that’s fun. Speaking of the fabric it’s a very drapey, lightweight cotton twill. It hangs beautifully and is so nice to wear. As I mentioned I barely had enough fabric, because in my ultimate wisdom I decided ages ago to make a cushion cover out of it (which has since been thrown away, otherwise I would have cut it up for pockets). So I had to piece one of the facings and two pocket pieces, plus make the pockets smaller. I refused to make it without pockets. What’s a shirt dress without pockets??! And I didn’t want to make them in a contrast fabric as I didn’t want to ruin the overall look with any bits peeking out of the pocket openings.

Moving on to the fit. I’ve got some drag lines from bust to shoulder and quite a lot of excess fabric above the bust. I think I need to raise the shoulders but I’m worried about how the collar will complicate matters. I think I just need to get to work! The amount of ease in the waist is nice to wear, so I don’t think I’ll change that. There’s a fair bit of excess fabric through the lower back so I need to have a look at that too.

Buttonholes were a joy (thanks automatic buttonhole foot). I did a tiny hem as I liked the length as it was. I should have put the top button slightly further up, as you can possibly see in the pictures the collar has folded where it feels like it. I’m going to put a press stud on the inside there to keep it in one place, but next time I’ll space my buttons differently. I didn’t follow the button spacing on the pattern, as I like a button at the waist to stop gaping, and I felt that with smaller buttons I needed them closer together.

Little Tiny Hem

Lovely buttons, easy button holes and a lot of cat hair

I called it the Nora dress because my grandma had a dress very much like this, a navy polka dot shirt dress, and when I picture her that's what I see her wearing.

By the way, this is the ideal shoe pairing for flattering blog photos, not for real life being a mum/drama and music teacher/professionally tired person. I really wear it like this: